tenaya iati vs solution

But the Iati is not intended to be a specialized shoe that does just one thing really well. I found that this combination of stiffness and only a slight downturn actually made the shoe better equipped than more aggressively downturned shoes to deal with a wide variety of styles. the heel hook on the tenaya was useful . I had to tighten the straps to the point where I can barely squeeze my foot in through them, before I even close the straps with the velcro flap, 2020-2021 Blister Winter Buyer's Guide — Print Edition. The IATI is a shoe of two parts. The thick rubber may make the edge last longer but may not have a lot of sensitivity until they are well broken in. At Tenaya's .net webpage, the rigidity ratings are 3 for the Oasi and 3.5 for the Tarifa.

The Tenaya Iati is a high end shoe which is fairly aggressive.

And the tongue is perforated Lycra with a lighter, stretchier material on the sides.

The Tenaya Iati is available here at Sender Gear: I bought a pair of Tenaya’s from Nick and Sharon this week, not only are they the most comfortable aggressive shoe I’ve ever tried on the customer service from these guys are incredible!

The downturn in the toe box, while less exaggerated than other shoes in the test group, is effective without sacrificing comfort. How can we improve GearLab? The Tenaya IATI is truly an all-around climbing shoe. And while this may not be the case for everyone using the shoes, it is something to consider if you generally like your shoes to be very tight. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. But a lot of people I talk to are not huge fans of the Solution heel since it doesn’t fit them well, so I’m sure the IATI heel will work well for some people. If you want to find out more, then you can talk to any of our experts online right now at the EpicTV Shop. Climbers that have used the La Sportiva Solution shoe might find the design a little more familiar. If you have an abnormally wide forefoot, you’ll definitely want to try these on before committing to a pair. this was the first time I try this shoe.. It has an amazingly comfortable yet aggressive fit, perfect when climbing casually or for long periods of time. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Extremely precise and aggressive, highly adjustable, very comfortable, great heel, Tight fit, thin straps could wear out faster than thick straps. I wnat to buy the tenaya oasi 2 uk size. Sign in to get an e-mail when this product comes back in stock. I tried it on overhang routes but it failed to stay on the tiniest of holds compared to my other esportiva solution which has higher precision. The Velcro straps on the IATI are a little more complicated than those found on standard Velcro climbing shoes. Be the first one to hear about our weekly deals on climbing gear. Tenaya markets the IATI as maximizing the connection between climber and rock. Can I buy the 2 UK size? Being the shoe used in the first 9a onsight you will expect big things from the Tenaya Oasi, and you wont be disappointed. On the Oasi, the two strap closure had two independent Velcro tabs that weren’t always adequate for staying put. For anyone who has struggled finding a brand of shoe that is comfy and fits I would give these a try. Company: Tenaya. The Velcro straps on the IATI are a little more complicated than those found on standard Velcro climbing shoes. The stretchy material extends further up your ankle than other climbing shoes, which helps to reduce pinching. Climbers that have used the La Sportiva Solution shoe might find the design a little more familiar. The power point of the front edge is beneath the big toe instead of off to the side which directs the weight of the climber directly onto the edge. What I do like about the heel is that there is a slightly softer section of rubber (the yellow rubber) on the outside of the heel. Many new climbing shoe manufacturers are also producing their own rubber. The Iati has a more traditional one part sole with about twice as much sole rubber beneath the arch of the foot.

The tongue is reminiscent of the Solution, but the Oasi is a drastically different shoe. My current ones are Lasportiva Mythos Eco. I also found myself a little less than satisfied with the heel and toe hooking ability of the shoe. Tenaya say that they are similar in design to the OASI shoe, which Megos was wearing when he onsighted the 9a 'Estado Critico', but they are slightly more comfortable to wear than the OASIs.

Let us know! It comes packed with a slew of technologies, and Tenaya boasts about the IATI’s responsiveness, performance, and comfort. It is very reminiscent of the Solution closure in that it is made of webbing straps attached to a large velcro patch.

RUBBERThe IATI’s Vibram XS Grip rubber is soft and confident. The inner of the shoe is a cotton material that is given a “TXT treatment,” which essentially just aids in moisture control and comfort. When he’s not exploring, you can find him sharing insights and chronicling his journeys at improbablebutpossible.com. A perfect blend for all-around climbing, it sticks when you need it to without any break in period and is reliable despite its sensitivity. :), Please note, comments must be approved before they are published, Toggle Ice Climbing and Snow Shoes sublinks, t: find the right size in a new model, compared to your old climbing shoes or street shoes. For all the basics—edging, smearing on slab, and moderately overhung climbing—the IATI performed very well. The Iati utilizes the same Draxtor Velcro closure system as the Oasi, but it’s much improved. [2nd pair of shoes] Tenaya Iati vs Oasi. You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. The only place where it fell short of a shoe like the Solution is when you get into serious steeps. Perfect allrounder who does it all with feel & sensitivity + tons of comfort.

This definitely isn’t what I found with the IATI, and if I had to give the most brief summary I could of the shoe, it would be best suited for “all-around high-performance.”. The Iati is the latest high-performance shoe from the Spanish brand Tenaya. Tenaya calls it their “Draxtor PAT” system, and it’s an adjustable velcro closure system. But the straps are adjustable via small “buckles,” so the closure can be changed for feet of slightly different sizes, or for different tightness preferences. SMEARINGThe IATI’s comfortable fit makes smearing decidedly pleasant.

The adjustable closure system is quick and secure, but cams down on itself, thus requiring an extra step to pull out slack before tightening. In terms of adjustability and security, the closure almost feels like a lace-up shoe, but with the quickness of velcro. One piece soles will offer more support and are generally better for face climbing while two piece soles are generally better for climbing really steep terrain. However, Tenaya have built on Sportiva’s design so that you can adjust the top part of the strap separately to the lower part. It’s a solid all-around high performer that can handle any hard climbing you throw at it. enquiries@bananafingers.co.uk, We use cookie on this site to enhance your user experience. This shoe feels at home on any terrain. So given that a lot of my climbing revolves around “specialist shoe climbing,” the IATI isn’t going to be my new go-to shoe.

Runs large; order a half to a full size down from normal, Heel hooks are overly sensitive, not for the weak footed.

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